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Quinta do PilotoSetúbal

€4,749.00
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TECH SHEET

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Country
PortugalPortugal
Region
Setúbal
Type
Moscatel
Producer
Quinta do Piloto
Winemaker
Filipe Cardoso
Grapes
Moscatel Graúdo
Alcohol
17% vol.
Bottle
50 cl

Wine profile

Fortified · amber

Sweetness
Body
Acidity
Alcohol17% vol

Tap or hover a scale

Wine profile · Fortified

Sweetness

Level 5 of 5 — Very sweet and luscious – like honey or dried figs

Above typical (3.7) · Typical: average of 43 fortified wines at Vinogrande

What it is

Sweetness comes from the grape's natural sugar that did not turn into alcohol (residual sugar). A dry wine has almost none; a Port or a late-harvest wine has a lot.

Where you feel it

On the tip of your tongue, right from the first sip, and as a richer, oilier feel in the mouth. Acidity can mask it.

How we set this level

For this wine, the level comes from: the rules of the style (WSET; IVDP for Port and Madeira).

It is measured in grams of residual sugar per litre. General EU bands: dry up to about 4 g/L, off-dry up to 12, medium-sweet up to 45, sweet above that. On our scale: under 4 g/L = 1, up to 12 = 2, up to 45 = 3, up to 100 = 4, more = 5.

The 1–5 scale follows the WSET tasting grid. We start from the producer's technical sheet and Vinogrande's tasting notes, plus measured data where it exists, such as the alcohol on the label. Only when that is missing do we use the typical profile of the style, region or grapes, and we say so.

The 1–5 scale

  1. 1Dry: no noticeable sugar
  2. 2Off-dry: a touch of sweetness
  3. 3Medium-sweet: clearly sweet
  4. 4Sweet: rich and fruity
  5. 5Very sweet: luscious This wine

In practice, for this wine

A dessert in itself: chocolate, nuts, aged or blue cheese. A small glass is enough.

Wine profile · Fortified

Body

Level 4 of 5 — Full and broad – like single cream

In line with typical (3.9) · Typical: average of 37 fortified wines at Vinogrande

What it is

Body is the weight and texture of the wine in your mouth. It comes mainly from alcohol, extract (everything dissolved apart from water), glycerol and, in sweet wines, sugar.

Where you feel it

Across the whole tongue: how much the wine fills your mouth. Think skimmed milk, whole milk and cream.

How we set this level

For this wine, the level comes from: the rules of the style (WSET; IVDP for Port and Madeira).

There is no single number for body. Labs measure dry extract (many wines are between 18 and 30 g/L) and alcohol, which WSET says has the biggest effect on body. Our scale rates the weight in the mouth.

The 1–5 scale follows the WSET tasting grid. We start from the producer's technical sheet and Vinogrande's tasting notes, plus measured data where it exists, such as the alcohol on the label. Only when that is missing do we use the typical profile of the style, region or grapes, and we say so.

The 1–5 scale

  1. 1Light: fluid and delicate
  2. 2Medium−: light-ish
  3. 3Medium: rounded
  4. 4Medium+: broad This wine
  5. 5Full: dense and rich

In practice, for this wine

Wants dishes with structure: red meat, roasts, mushrooms, aged cheese.

Wine profile · Fortified

Acidity

Level 5 of 5 — Crisp and racy – like freshly squeezed lemon

In line with typical (4.8) · Typical: average of 28 fortified wines at Vinogrande

What it is

Acidity is the wine's freshness: it gives energy, makes your mouth water and helps the wine age. Too little and it tastes flat; too much and it feels sharp.

Where you feel it

On the sides of your tongue, and in how much your mouth waters after you swallow. The more you salivate, the higher the acidity.

How we set this level

For this wine, the level comes from: Vinogrande's tasting notes and wine description.

Labs measure total acidity (grams of tartaric acid per litre; most wines sit between 4.5 and 8 g/L) and pH (usually 3.0 to 3.8; the lower, the more acidic). Our scale turns that into how it feels in the mouth.

The 1–5 scale follows the WSET tasting grid. We start from the producer's technical sheet and Vinogrande's tasting notes, plus measured data where it exists, such as the alcohol on the label. Only when that is missing do we use the typical profile of the style, region or grapes, and we say so.

The 1–5 scale

  1. 1Low: soft, little freshness
  2. 2Medium−: gentle
  3. 3Medium: fresh and balanced
  4. 4Medium+: lively, mouth-watering
  5. 5High: crisp, racy This wine

In practice, for this wine

Ideal with oysters, shellfish, sushi and fried food; it stands up to sharp, salty dishes. Serve cold, great as an aperitif.

Wine profile · Fortified

Alcohol 17% vol

Level 3 of 5 — Firm warmth, well blended with the sweetness

Below typical (3.7) · Typical: average of 43 fortified wines at Vinogrande

What it is

Alcohol is made when yeast ferments the grape's sugar. It brings warmth, adds to the body and carries the aromas.

Where you feel it

As warmth in your throat and chest when you swallow, and a slight burn on the nose when it is high.

How we set this level

For this wine, the level comes from: the alcohol stated on the label — On the label: 17% vol.

It is the one axis that is always measured: it comes from the % vol on the label. Still and sparkling wines: under 11% = 1, up to 12.4% = 2, up to 13.4% = 3, up to 14.4% = 4, 14.5% or more = 5. Fortified wines (Port, Madeira…) have their own scale: under 16.5% = 2, up to 18.4% = 3, up to 19.9% = 4, 20% or more = 5.

The 1–5 scale follows the WSET tasting grid. We start from the producer's technical sheet and Vinogrande's tasting notes, plus measured data where it exists, such as the alcohol on the label. Only when that is missing do we use the typical profile of the style, region or grapes, and we say so.

The 1–5 scale

  1. 2Light fortified: under 16.5% vol
  2. 3Medium fortified: 16.5–18.4% vol This wine
  3. 4High fortified: 18.5–19.9% vol
  4. 5Very high fortified: 20% vol or more

In practice, for this wine

Good with desserts, cheese and nuts; small glass.

Critics & awards

Serve & enjoy

Temperature 10–12 °CFridge 2 h · take it out 10 min before serving
GlassPort / dessert glass

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Description

Quinta do Piloto Moscatel de Setúbal Coleção de Família is a fortified wine of intense topaz with olive-green tints. With the barrels last topped up in 1996, the nose is very complex and exuberant, with notes of honey, nuts, coffee and tobacco, hints of surrounding vegetation and subtle spicy aromas recalling curry. On the palate it's clearly aged and rare, with a dense consistency from sugars concentrated over the years. It finishes with vibrant acidity for a unique, memorable tasting.

The Wine AdvocateRP 95Reviewed by: Mark Squires

The NV Moscatel de Setúbal Coleção da Família (the blue label; the Roxo version has a white label) is, this time, the 2021 bottling. It has 295 grams per litre of residual sugar, a bar-top cork and almost 17% alcohol. The winery says that in the early 20th century, when Humberto da Silva Cardoso bought Quinta do Piloto, he “set aside 10 small 50-litre barrels for himself, which he filled with the best moscatel from his estates. Since then, this moscatel has stayed in the shade of the Quinta do Piloto cellar, reserved only for the family. Year after year, four generations have followed the ritual of filling each barrel with the best of each vintage.”

The last addition to this solera-style Moscatel was in 2002, as with the last version I reviewed, but the barrel has been topped up twice since with portions of the 2002 vintage (25 more litres each time). Although it's a non-vintage wine, with different blends of years in each release, it comes with a booklet that includes the bottling date. Unfortunately, that isn't shown on the outside. Only 35 bottles are released each year.

Quite elegant, this wine still has plenty of concentration, but also surprising finesse for the category. If you're looking for one of those more syrupy styles, this isn't it. Even so, the concentration is clearly there and the unctuous texture stands out. The mid-palate finesse is surprisingly good and the flavours are glorious, with a touch of spice. This is a star, still well preserved and young, with no sign of tired fruit. The price is a bit high, but setting that aside, the wine delivers everything it promises.

What to serve with this wine

Dishes calculated from this wine’s profile, grapes and region.