Porseleinberg Syrah 2022Syrah 2022

Porseleinberg Syrah 2022 is one of South Africa's most acclaimed and sought-after reds, made in the iconic Swartland region by winemaker Callie Louw. This vintage stands out as one of the estate's most singular, reaching the lowest alcohol in its history (13.3% ABV) thanks to a long, atypical ripening cycle.

The Wine AdvocateRP 94+Reviewed by: Monica Larner

The 2022 Porseleinberg Swartland Syrah shows added notes of smoke and spice. New foudres were delivered and used for the first time for this wine. Rainfall was abundant, reaching 470 millimetres (the average here is 450 millimetres), and the alcohol is low at 13.3%. Drinking the 2022 now is premature, as the wine is still quite reserved and restrained.

A challenging ripening phase was followed by prolonged heat in January and large diurnal temperature swings. Winemaker Callie Louw calls this "stress ripening", which gives a broader, more muscular fruit profile, with more open tannins and abundant fruit. Callie Louw prioritises expressing the character of each vintage. All human-introduced variables stay constant. The DNA of this specific terroir shows in the wine's tannins, which are chalky and elegant.

Porseleinberg (named after the kaolin clay in the soils, once used to make porcelain) is the domain of winemaker and viticulturist Callie Louw. This remote, rugged property covers 180 hectares and was founded by Marc Kent of Boekenhoutskloof in 2009. Most of the farm is planted with Syrah, and Porseleinberg makes just one wine: the Swartland Syrah, considered a South African benchmark. Porseleinberg uses only 10% of the estate's Syrah, the rest going to Boekenhoutskloof and its popular The Chocolate Block.

In the cellar the approach is minimalist, with 100% whole-bunch fermentation, stems included, indigenous yeasts, a "submerged cap" (a grid placed about 45 centimetres deep) and ageing in large foudres and square concrete tanks. During fermentation there are two pump-overs a day, more like a tea infusion, Callie Louw explains.

"Syrah is a fragile grape in the field, but it doesn't make a fragile wine," he says.

As my visit to the estate was in late spring, I was lucky to spend time in the vineyards with Callie Louw. He explained his organic farming practices, his no-till approach and his particular cover-crop philosophy.

"Organic matter turns into carbon, and I want to sequester carbon," he says. The vibrant, healthy cover crop, which releases wonderful spring scents as you walk the vines, consists of essentially four elements: first, cereals (oats and wheat); second, brassicas rich in sulphur, calcium and magnesium; third, deep-rooted radishes; and fourth, legumes such as peas and broad beans to provide nitrogen.

"Either you decide to improve the soils, or you're actively destroying them," he says.

He's now looking for ways to give up irrigation in this water-stressed part of the country by increasing the carbon content of the soils. By his calculations, between 1.5% and 2% carbon is a sustainable level for the vines.

"I'm saving water with mulch," he explains.

The vineyard has shallow blue schist soils, but the tiny, capillary particles hold moisture well. The ultimate goal is dry-farmed viticulture.

"If you give nothing, you get nothing. That's the only equation I know," says Callie Louw.

Published: 5 June 2025