Torre de Oña El Camino 2021 - "Obra-prima da viticultura artesanal"

• " Masterpiece of artisanal viticulture " Mi Vino magazine
• “ A superb first release! ” Tim Atkin MW
• “ Complexity, depth, elegance… A great debut! ” Robert Parker

The Wine Advocate
RP 96

Reviewed by: Luis Gutiérrez

The nameless wine I tasted last year under the generic Viñedos Artesanales label has finally been released as the 2021 El Camino, from three plots of old bush vines planted 81 years ago with Tempranillo and 3% other varieties, including Mazuelo, Garnacha and Viura. The vineyards are in the lieux-dits El Pisón, La Revilla and Las Naves, in the village of Elvillar.
The destemmed grapes fermented in the new winery built for this Viñedos Artesanales range, in small truncated-cone stainless steel vats, and the wine aged in 500-litre French oak barrels for 14 months, including malolactic.
Using larger barrels forces the wine to be sold as generic, or “joven”; it can't be sold as Reserva or Gran Reserva, or even Crianza! But larger barrels also mean the oak is much more integrated and has less impact on the wine, which is young and juicy, with great freshness, elegance and balance, and a different profile with far less oak influence.
It's a little reserved, shy, insinuating and subtle, slightly austere, opening slowly in the glass. Silky and elegant but firm, with very chalky tannins. Restrained ripeness, 14.5% alcohol, a pH of 3.78, 4.8 grams of acidity and just under two grams of unfermented sugar. It's developing very slowly and positively. A good debut.
3,680 bottles were filled in July 2023. The label is unique: it has a small piece of vine cane attached!

James Suckling:
Impressive depth and complexity for a Rioja, with toasted spices, minerals, cumin, pink pepper and hints of cured meat and cocoa powder. Full-bodied and really very mineral on the palate, with firm, super-polished tannins. Very long. Drink now or hold.

Tim Atkin:
El Camino is a new wine from the Torre de Oña team, from three plots in Elvillar (El Pisón, La Revilla and Quintanilla), a field blend of Tempranillo with 20% other red and white grapes. Spicy and energetic, with top notes of wild Mediterranean herbs, chalky minerality and layers of black cherry, raspberry and pomegranate. A superb debut. Pleasantly fresh. 2026–2038.