Benoît Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc 2023

Benoît Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc 2023 is a high-precision white made in the Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, from Chardonnay. Made biodynamically from a careful selection of plots in the appellation, it reflects the typical balance between rich texture and striking mineral freshness.

The Wine Advocate
RP 91

Critic: William Kelley

From six plots scattered around the village, the 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc offers aromas of pear, orange oil and white flowers, followed by a medium- to full-bodied, bright and pure palate with a satiny texture and a distinct saline streak.

Benoit Moreau founded his own domaine in November 2020. That same year, to prepare for the transition, Benoit bought some must from close friends whose working methods matched his own philosophy. In 2021, however, he worked almost exclusively with grapes from his own plots, and the results were even more impressive, producing one of the most captivating portfolios in the Côte de Beaune in that challenging vintage. His 2022s were on the same level, but the 2023s seem to go even further.

Indeed, tasting them, I had the impression of a completely different vintage from the one I found at many other estates. This is due to the rare combination of energy and tension, together with full ripeness, that Moreau seems to have achieved.

As readers will recall, the viticulture here follows biodynamic principles, with certification under way. Moreau is also committed to working all his premier cru plots by hand or with small tracked machines known as chenillards. In some plots he's trying “tressage” as an alternative to mechanical trimming of the vine canopy; when he does trim, it's done by hand.

Green cover crops help increase organic matter in the soils and protect them from heat in summer.

In the winery, Moreau destems and crushes before pressing when the skins are fully ripe, working with indigenous yeasts and bacteria. The wines are aged (élevage) in 228-litre barrels for 18 months, then bottled under high-quality natural cork and finished with wax.

Published: 30 January 2025